Inches & Cubes Podcast Episode 17 – A Tale of Nuns With Guns

Episode 17: Nuns with Guns – In this oddly musical episode, Adam leads Paul and Nick though an overview of the forces of the Adeptus Sororitas. Then, the gang discusses the pending Death Guard codex.

The Malefic Lord – Chaos Players Must Read

By: Kitbasha Jay

I’ve been playing around with a lot of Chaos lists lately. This may be due to the fact that I have 2 Chaos Space Marine Armies, 2 Renegades and Heretics Armies and 2 Chaos Daemon Armies. But I’ve decided to focus on one of my Renegades and Heretics armies right now.

I spent many months focussed on my Iron Warriors army in preparation for a couple of the Horus Heresy events that Encounter Wargaming participated in this summer. All I plan to add to that army to get them ready for 40k Is a nice Daemon Prince I converted a while back. Maybe if I finish painting him I’ll do a blog on that.

In 8th edition so far I’ve really only been using my Orks. The Orks always have and always will be my go to army for a fun game. With the new release of the Chaos Space Marine Codex, however, I’ve been itching to get my Chaos armies up and running again. Which leads me to the point of this article.

I built one of my Renegades and Heretics armies specifically for Hogtown 40k. I originally built them for the 1250 Lethal Lottery events that the club hosts annually. After rewriting my Night Lords and Iron Warriors lists to the new codex I realized I had enough models to significantly increase my Mutant Horde.

Now we get to the real point…THE MALEFIC LORD!

This little guy is a diamond in the rough. I was extremely disappointed when I saw the Renegades and Heretics update in the Astra Militarum Forgeworld Index. Then I realized they have one of the best units in the game. The Malefic Lord. He doesn’t look like much at first but today I’m going to tell you all what I think of this little guy and you can correct me or agree with me if you wish.

At first glance he’s a T4 4W human with a 4+ Invulnerable Save. Not too crazy right. Then I realized that he can manifest 1 Psychic Power in the Psychic Phase. Just like every other Psyker, he knows Smite. On top of that he’s only 30 points and 4 power level.

Smite spam is killing it in the current meta. Brimstone horror armies are killing it these days. They’re dirt cheap and Smite is absolutely amazing since there’s not a whole lot you can do to stop it unless you also have a lot of Psykers.

Let’s talk about the difference between the Horrors and the Malefic Lord. If you’re looking for Smite spam than we have to do some basic math. So let’s figure this out together.

– 10 Brimstone Horrors are 20 points. That gives you 10W at T3 and a 5+ Invuln.
– 1 Malefic Lord is 30 points. That gives you 4W at T4 with a 4+ Invuln.
– Horrors can be targeted with any weapon on the battlefield.
– Malefic Lord Cannot be targeted unless he’s the closest unit.

The final point is the one that makes the difference for me. This makes a Supreme Command Detachment very appealing. It only has to be 3 HQ units and it gives you another Command Point. Plus since they have the Chaos Keyword you could put them in any Chaos Army. Especially if you take them as their own detachment. They won’t interfere with Legion Traits. They just can’t benefit from them. So you’re telling me for 90 points I get 3 extra Smites per turn and they can’t be targeted. I’ll take 4 please.

In my Mutant Horde army I already have 40 Cultists and 20 Mutants backed up by 3 Defilers and 2 Ogryn Beast Masters with 12 Chaos Hounds between them. Not to mention a Daemon Prince, a few Missile Teams and some Chaos Spawn for good measure. I’m sure this will give me plenty of place to hide some characters that will piss players right off. Might even cost me some friendships, we’ll see. I built this army for our tournaments though so it might be welcomed with a steak. ;P

To get creative for a second. Instead of comparing the Horrors to the Malefic Lord…what would happen if you fielded them together? Mwahaha. So for 50 Points you’ve got 1 HQ and 1 Troop. There’s 2 Smites per turn and you have to kill the 10 Brimstones before you can even target the Malefic Lord.

Now up these to Blue of Pink Horrors and I can’t even do the math on how many wounds you would have to chew through before being able to target the character. On top of that, if you do them in Supreme Command Detachments you can put 3 Malefic Lords with each unit of Horrors. Smite spam just became even better. Especially with all those Command Points backing them up.

To finish off the blog today there is one more fact about the Malefic Lord that must be brought to light. It also has a special rule that is as follows:

Warp Possession – If this model suffers Perils of the Warp and survives, immediately increase its Weapon Skill characteristic to 2+, it’s Strength to 8 and its Attacks to 5. Also, adjust the Armour Penetration and Damage of it’s bare hands to -2 and 2 respectively.

The worst thing that can happen to a Psyker sometimes is to Perils. Who cares when the Psyker is only 30 points and you have a few more of them where that came from. So if he dies from Perils…whatever…he only cost 30 points. If he doesn’t then he becomes Superman and you throw him into combat.

My mind just went crazy when I read this unit entry in the Forgeworld Index. A few of these little dudes should be included in every Chaos Army. Smite spam is king!

As always I’m interested in what you guys think. Post a comment right here on the blog or leave one on our Facebook or Instagram pages. Or feel free to shoot me an email at

Until our next Encounter!

Painting Ancient Ruins

By: Kitbasha Jay

Yesterday on Terrain Tuesday I showed you how I built my Celtic Temple terrain set. Today we’re going to paint these puppies. If you didn’t read yesterday’s article just go to the bottom of this blog and there should be a link to yesterday’s blog. This was a fun project and I’m happy to share it with you. So let’s get started.

First step after we’ve glued the basing sand onto the pieces is to paint them fully brown. I generally use a Burnt Umber. In the case of these pieces I painted them with a brush and a large tub of school paint I got at the art store. Lately, however, I’ve been using an Espresso coloured spray paint. It’s six of one but the spray is quicker and more durable.

After the entire piece is brown we go on to dry brushing. For these pieces I used a craft acrylic called Westport Grey. It’s the equivalent of what Citadel calls Dawnstone. This will provide a nice grey base for our stone walls. Once the stones are all painted grey, I hit the pieces with a series of washes.

The stones after washes

These washes I created by simply watering down various craft paints. I started by washing all the stones with a black wash. Once that’s dry I washed the lower half of the walls and stone circle with a Hunter Green. This creates the appearance of moss build up in the crevices of the stones. Only doing the lower half of the piece not only adds variance and detail but more accurately creates the illusion of water stains close to the earth.

The next wash is made from a Cinnamon Brown. This one is only applied in patches. This just adds another level of detail to the stones so that they don’t appear so monotonous. Real stone blocks have a variance of minerals and this colour is to simulate that. Plus it makes the pieces a little more interesting for the onlooker.

Once the washes are dry I do another dry brush of the grey. This blends the stones back to a uniform colour. The washes remain in the crevices to create subtle colour variations in the final product. You won’t be able to see the washes unless you look close. This makes it hard to see in photos but if anyone is to examine the piece it makes it look that much more professional.

Since some of the dry brush from the stones naturally gets onto the dirt we want to go around and touch up the Burnt Umber anywhere we see grey. It makes sense for there to be some dirt on the rocks. It doesn’t make sense for there to be rock colour on the dirt.

Once the burnt umber is dry we can begin our final drybrush stages. We’ll start by just drybrushing the sand areas with our cinnamon brown. This creates a middle colour between our Burnt Umber basecoat and our final drybrush layer. That being a “bleached bone”. The colour I actually used is called Unbleached Titanium. It’s the equivalent of what Citadel refers to as Ushabti Bone. Instead of just dry brushing the sand areas we are going to drybrush the entire piece with the bone colour. Sand, Stones and all. This adds a final highlight to the pieces and ties all the colours together unifying the entire set.

final drybrush highlight

The areas you see here that are still brown are the areas where I didn’t put any sand. These areas are going to be covered in static grass and foliage. In case you haven’t guessed, that’s our next step.

I start by painting the areas I want the grass with PVA glue. For this project I was going for an element of realism and so decided to use three colour tones of static grass. Once the PVA layer is down I start by sprinkling the dark grass in small spots. After this a medium shade in larger spots. Finally, the vibrant green shade on the remainder of the glue.

This creates a random variance in the colour of the grass. If you’ve ever walked through a field you may have noticed not all the grass is not one colour, nor is it all the same type of grass. Doing this three tone technique simply creates a more ralistic feel to the grass and makes it less boring for the eye as well.

The very final step is to glue on some plastic plants. I simply took some plastic plants I purchased at the Dollarama and cut them into small pieces about an inch at the longest. This makes them feel more appropriate for a 28 mm scale. These were glued on using a 5 minute epoxy. I’d definitely recommend this glue for stuff like this where you don’t have a large contact point. It will dry in 5 minutes and dries clear so if you use a large glob to hold on your plants it won’t mess up your entire piece.

The finished product

The very last touch are some small flower patches that I also purchased at the dollar store. These were actually strips of little pink styrofoam balls that I just cut into small pieces and glued onto the static grass with PVA. This just adds a little colour to the pieces so that they’re not just grey and green. As with any miniatures we want to have more than a couple colours to create interest. This just adds the final touch that really makes the pieces pop.

I also managed to find some moss at the dollar store. This is used to create the vines you see growing up the stone circle in the back right of the above pic. This was also glued on with PVA glue. Once that was dry I simply watered down some PVA and painted the moss vines with it to make sure that they don’t peel off in the future.

We want to not only make these pieces look nice but we also want them to be durable. The layer of watered down PVA should be good enough for the vines but static grass has a tendency to flake off as the terrain gets used. This can be prevented by giving the entire piece a nice coat of clear matte lacquer to finish it off.

And it literally is that simple. I hope you’ve enjoyed this two part series. Hopefully all of you out there are attempting some stone ruins of your own. I also do commissions so if you like these pieces and feel you don’t have the skills to do them yourself you can always shoot me an email and I’ll hook you up.

Also like I said yesterday, I donated these pieces to the gaming room at The Sword and Board here in Toronto. Head on over to their store and have a game with my terrain. Also check out their website at the link below.

The Sword and Board Toronto

Now that the shameless promotion is over I’d also like to see what terrain projects you’ve been working on. What cool techniques have you discovered that have changed the way you do terrain? What awesome pieces have you created that you want everyone to see? Please post pics and comments below, on our Facebook or Instagram feeds. Also feel free to email me at

Until our next Encounter!

Terrain Tuesday – Ancient Ruins

By: Kitbasha Jay

A few months ago I had an idea for some ancient stone temples. I wanted to create a gaming table that could be used for nearly any gaming system. So I began to look to the internet for inspiration. My hope was that I could create something that could be used in any fantasy world. For anything from 40k, to Malifaux, to D&D.

After searching the internet for photos of ancient temples and stone structures I decided to go with a Celtic theme. Being of British ancestry these ruined houses and walls really spoke to me. They were something I could easily build and would fit in nearly any fantasy world. These are some of the pics I used for inspiration.

With these in mind I grabbed a rubber foam mat that they were throwing out at the shop I was working in at the time. You can purchase these jigsaw shaped mats at Canadian Tire or other hardware and autoparts stores. I had been looking for an excuse to start working with this material. This was the perfect use for it.

I began by taking an xacto knife and cutting the mat into long strips. I then cut these into small brick shaped pieces. Once I had a bunch of bricks I could use to build the structures, I took a pair of scissors and trimmed off the majority of the sharp edges. This made them look more like rough stone blocks rather than bricks. These were to be my building blocks.

I then used PVA glue to start building the walls. Squeezing it directly out of the bottle i put a large blob anywhere I wanted to place a brick. With little thought or planning I just started building. I kept the inspiration pics on my laptop screen near me as a guide. It was actually quite therapeutic building these little houses.

Pro Tip: The PVA takes a long time to dry. You may find that as you stack higher and higher the wall begins to sag. This can be easily fixed by standing a bottle of paint or glue against the wall to prevent it from leaning as the glue dries. If you find this too clumsy then wait for the first few rows to harden before going on to the next few.

You could use other forms of adhesive for this. Super glue and hot glue will dry very quickly. Superglue, however, can leave a rough texture on the stones that doesn’t look natural. The hot glue can leave globs between the stones which does not look pretty once it’s dry and painted. If hot enough it can also melt the rubber foam in undesirable spots.

The PVA will soak into the blocks and still stick them together. Because it soaks in, even being globby with it will not leave globs on the final product. So be patient and take your time. The results will be worth it.

I finished the pieces off by adding some slate to the set as walking stones. Also I put on some rough gravel closer to the walls themselves before adding the fine sand to the majority of the pieces. I think they turned out pretty well.

On tomorrow’s blog we’ll continue the process by painting these sweet little terrain pieces. I had originally built these for my own personal use. A few months back the FLGS that Hogtown 40k usually plays at changed ownership. Long story short, the previous owner took all his terrain with him.

The club was scrambling to rebuild enough terrain to host our gaming events. So I decided to donate these to the new store. If you’re in Toronto and you want to see these terrain pieces in person then head on over to The Sword and Board. You can even use them for a game if you want. Also check out their website at the link below.

The Sword and Board Toronto

I’m also interested in hearing about your Terrain projects. What unusual materials have you used to make terrain pieces? Have you used any materials for the first time and had amazing or horrifying results? Leave a comment below, on our Facebook or Instagram feeds, or simply email your response to

Until our next Encounter!

Salvaging old minis – Trash into treasure

By: Kitbasha Jay

Two weeks ago on the blog we talked about getting friends into the game. I talked about an old friend of mine that has been a buddy for decades now. Him and I became friends in high school because of our involvement in 40k. We later became great friends and have been friends for the majority of our lives now.

I went to his wedding a couple weeks ago and we got a chance to hang out for quite a while before the wedding. He had mentioned to me how he wanted to get back into the game. Specifically, he wanted to start a Chaos Space Marine army.

Having been out of the game for about a decade now he no longer has any miniatures to get started with. At this point in my hobby career I have so many miniatures it’s ridiculous. I told him I would try and scrounge up an army for him. So I pulled out a bunch of old boxes of stuff I wasn’t using in an attempt to assemble a starter army that could be somewhat competitive in the new rules.

Just to get off on a tangent for a second, I have always been a kitbasher. Hence my nick name. Quite often I see people give up on an army because it was their first army, or they got it second hand and are so disappointed with the paint jobs, so they scrap it. In my opinion no miniature is unsalvageable.

In fact my entire Nurgle Renegades and Heretics army is composed of either miniatures that were “beyond saving” or stuff that I scratch built. It breaks my heart when miniatures get scrapped or go unused for long periods of time. I have always prided myself on being able to take “crap” miniatures that people just don’t want anymore and turn them into something usable.

I have quite a few boxes of miniatures that have been passed through many hands or painted over multiple times and are just so old that they are not ideal for my current armies. But I keep them anyway so that I can either use them for random bits if I need pieces for conversions. Or for instances like this where someone expresses an interest in the game and doesn’t want to spend a lot of money to get started.

Boxes of old crap

It’s amazing sometimes when you pull out a box of “junk” like this and start giving retired miniatures a little TLC. In a manner of a few hours I was able to scrounge up a pretty awesome 1000 point list for my friend. Sometimes we think we can’t use models because of the fact that they are in such bad condition. But I want to reinforce the fact that nothing is useless or unsalvageable. With the help of some random bits and a little cutting and gluing I turned the boxes you see above into the army you see below.

1000 Pts of Black Legion

Just so you know what you’re looking at, this is the list I’ve constructed from the boxes of random junk I had lying around.

Black Legion Army
Power Level: 47
Points Total: 1000

Patrol Detachment – Black Legion Trait

HQ Chaos Lord – Power Maul, Plasma Pistol, Frag and Krak Grenades.
Power Level: 5
Points Cost: 85

TR 10 Chaos Marines – Boltgun, Bolt Pistol, Frag and Krak Grenades. 1 has Plasma Gun, 1 has Lascannon, 1 Icon of Vengeance, Champion has Power Axe.
Power Level: 9
Points Cost: 183

TR 10 Chaos Marines – Boltgun, Bolt Pistol, Frag and Krak Grenades. 1 has Plasma Gun, 1 has Lascannon, 1 Icon of Vengeance, Champion has Power Axe.
Power Level: 9
Points Cost: 183

EL 20 Khorne Berserkers – Chainaxe, Bolt Pistol, Frag and Krak Grenades, 2 have Plasm Pistol, 1 has Icon of Wrath, Champion has Power Axe.
Power Level: 17
Points Cost: 369

HS 5 Havocs – Boltgun, Bolt Pistol, Frag and Krak Grenades, 4 have Missile Launchers, Champion has Combi-plasma.
Power Level: 7
Points Cost: 180

I was actually a little amazed myself that I was able to create such an efficient army out of random stuff that was practically junk. It’s amazing what you can do when you love this game and don’t want to see models go to waste. Once again, these are models I was never probably going to use for anything. Now they will make my friend a great starter army that he can expand on very easily.

I’m interested to hear if anyone out there has acquired used miniatures that with a little love have turned out better than one could hope. I want to hear your stories. Also I’d be interested in hearing some opinions on the list I’ve created with this “junk”.

Leave a comment here on the blog, on the Facebook page or email me at

Until our next Encounter!

Inches and Cubes Podcast Ep. 16 – Adam Returns & Hobby Helps!

In this episode of Inches and Cubes, Adam is back and he helps guide Paul and Nick though some handy hobby tips! We take a holistic approach from building to, the inner workings of Paul’s priming “diva’ness”, to wet blending and brush care.

Enjoy and stay tuned!