Building a Bunker Continued

By: Kitbasha Jay

I hope you all read yesterday’s blog where we made a foam core bunker for our 40k tables. Today we paint it. We’re also going to some foliage to the piece to make it appropriate for a jungle table.

The first step after the alcohol/glue mixture that we used to seal the sand has dried I spray painted the entire piece with an espresso coloured rust paint. This is quite a bit more durable than using a water based acrylic. It covers really well and seals everything in nicely.

Pro Tip: Make sure if you use a spray paint that all the edges of the foam core have been covered up. Covered with spackle, glue and/or sand. Also make sure you use a matte finish. If you use gloss spray, your pieces will be shiny and not look realistic. Plus any acrylics that you paint on after will likely peel in the future. No one wants that.

After the brown has dried I paint on all the base colours. The bunker was painted with a dark grey craft acrylic. The sand bags were painted with Tan and the trees with Cinnamon. I suggest using craft paints for terrain since it usually requires a large amount of paint and doesn’t necessarily require the high level of detail that miniatures do. So don’t waste your good model paints. You can pick up most craft paints at your local dollar store or craft store and generally go for $1 Canadian per bottle.

Make sure to put on a couple base coats. Most cheap craft acrylics are somewhat thin and very granular. Sometimes they can show streaks and so I suggest putting on at least two coats before moving on to the next step.

The next step is washes. These I also created by watering down the craft paints in a small paint bottle and shaking them profusely in order to make sure that they are thoroughly watered down. I use a dark or emerald green first. I begin by painting about 1 cm or a 1/4″ up from the ground on everything. The bunker, sandbags and trees all get a green near the base. This creates the illusion of moss and mildew build up from remaining ground water.

The next step is to wash the sand bags with the cinnamon paint that you used on the trees. You can use other medium browns if you wish. I just had an abundance of the cinnamon and so decided to use that. You can see the green and medium brown in the pic above.

The final step of wash is to cover everything (except the ground) with a black wash. This will soften the other washes that you put on and help blend all the colours together. Once that is dry, go around and touch up any areas where the wash ran onto the dirt with either a water based house paint or an acrylic that matches the espresso colour we used to spray paint it.

After that we pull out the colours we used for the base coats. With a large brush go over each piece with a dry brush of the original base colour. This will soften the stark colour difference of the washes and bring the pieces back to their original shades. At the same time it leaves the washes in all the nooks and crannies in order to add subtle detail that the piece would just not look as good without.

You may wonder once you do this why we even washed it in the first place. No one is going to see the wash colours from a distance. Trust me on this. It makes a world of difference when looking at these pieces up close and will make them feel much more realistic.

After that I gave the ground a dry brush of a yellow brown colour. The exact shade I used is called yellow oxide but it’s the same as what GW used to call Snakebite Leather. This adds a nice transition between the dark espresso and the final dry brush we will do to complete the piece while at the same time differentiating it from the trees and sand bags.

The final paint step is to tie all the colours together and create the final highlight for the piece. This is done by dry brushing every inch of the piece with a light bone/off white colour. I used a can of acrylic house paint for this but a craft paint will do just fine. Aim for a similar shade to what we used to call bleached bone. What Citadel now calls Ushabti Bone. Make sure to get a nice dry brush on everything. Bunker, trees, sandbags, all of it.

And that’s all there is to painting the terrain. We’re not done though. This was just the painting. Now we’re going to decorate the piece with foliage and plant life. I purchased a large amount of plastic plants at my local dollar store. They generally have stock of these type of things depending on the season so make sure to check these stores regularly as seasons change for a nice variety of fake plants.

Some come in bushes, others in vine configurations, some even come in topiary balls. Whatever form it comes it just take your hobby clippers and start cutting pieces off these plants that are approximately 1″ long or just above the height of a Space Marine.

After you have all of your plastic plants cut and ready to attach just go around the piece and roughly decide where you want the various types of plants you’ve decided to use will go. Once you have a good idea of where you would like the plants to grow out of, take your pin drill and drill small holes where you want the plants to grow from.

Pro Tip: If you just glue the plants on without drilling a hole first they are more likely to break off in the future. Filling the hole with glue and sinking the small plants into the terrain piece will make them a lot stronger and less likely to come off in the future.

The final step is to glue in the plants. I decided to use a 5 minute 2 part epoxy. This stuff will literally glue anything to anything and dries both clear and quickly. The one depicted above comes in a syringe that dispenses equal amounts of the 2 parts. Sometimes they come in 2 separate tubes. This is fine, just make sure to mix relatively equal parts. Pour the two parts onto a disposable pallet or a piece of foil, paper or cardboard that you don’t mind throwing away after.

Mix the glue well with a toothpick or popsicle stick. Once you have a good mixture simply take a plant, dip the tip of it into the glue, and place it in the hole you drilled. Go around and do this on all of them and you should have a pretty cool looking terrain piece.

I actually found that this looked really cool but wasn’t enough foliage for me. I decided to finish off the piece with some clump foliage in random spots. This just adds another type of foliage that is different from the plastic plants just so it doesn’t look like only one type of plant grows in this jungle. You can also add static grass, flock and other types of foliage as you wish to. The only other thing I will be adding to this piece to complete it is large palm leaves on the tops of the trees to create the appearance of a jungle canopy.

As I told you guys in yesterday’s blog I am building this piece as a prototype for the rest of the terrain to go on this table and so will be adding the large palm leaves once all the other pieces with trees are complete. Keep an eye out in a few weeks. I may do a tutorial on those. Otherwise, make sure to stay up to date with our terrain tutorials on the Youtube channel. There will be a whole series based around this table. I hope you’ve enjoyed this little taste.

Until our next Encounter.

Terrain Tuesdays – Building a Bunker

By: Kitbasha Jay

For the last few weeks I’ve been showcasing various companies that manufacture terrain. This time I’m going to show you the terrain I’ve been building. I landed a commission a few weeks ago to build a jungle 40k table. Today I’m going to take you through the prototype terrain piece I’ve constructed for this table step by step.

I will be building 2 large bunker pieces for this table. Each will include dense foliage and sand bag emplacements. These pieces will absolutely be featured in terrain tutorials on our Youtube channel in the coming weeks. Until then I thought I would give you guys a taste of things to come. So let’s get started.

We begin by constructing the skeleton of our piece. For this I decided to use foam board. There are other materials I would recommend for the bases of terrain pieces other than foam board. Since I no longer have access to power tools that can cut expanded PVC or masonite board I decided to use foam board because it is easy to shape. Don’t worry, we’ll be adding layers on top to both strengthen the piece and prevent it from warping.

The next step is to cut the walls for our bunker. I believe I cut the side and back walls 1 3/4″ high. This way I figure even a Ogryn size model will be able to fit within and still fire out the front. The front walls I cut 3/4″ high so that a Space Marine or Imperial Guard figure can still see over. Once I had plotted out where I wanted my walls to go I used the cut offs from these pieces to create a staircase at the back of the bunker to create the illusion it’s dug into the ground. All the wall sections and staircase were assembled using a hot glue gun.

I then covered the entire bunker with spackle. This seals in the foam board to prevent warping and peeling once we begin to paint it. It also will create the illusion of a similar texture to concrete once it is painted.

After that I build up a hill on the outside with spackle. At first I used air dry pottery clay but found that once it dried it began to warp the piece and the clay began to crack, especially where it was thin. I scraped off what I could and built it back up with spackle. Something like Dap or Polyfilla will do the trick. As you can see in the pictures I did not cover the entire piece. I would suggest covering the foam board completely, which I did after building the sand bags before I put down the glue and sand.

So word to the wise, don’t use air dry clay to build up the hill. It would be much better to use something like milliput. Or you can just use layers of spackle on top of each other. This is where you guys get to learn from my mistakes. If you want to stay on the cheap side just use spackle. You may have to do many layers but the finished product will be just as nice as any other material. Especially since you want to cover the entire piece with spackle anyway to prevent the foam board from warping once we put down PVA glue and sand.

What we will use the air dry pottery clay for is building our sandbags. You can also use materials like milliput or green stuff but the air dry clay is a much less expensive material and will dry nice and hard making it durable. I achieved the shape of the bags by rolling the clay into a snake and then flattening it with my thumb. Then with a knife I cut 3/4″ rectangles and pinched the corners to create the illusion of a sand bag.

Then you just have to stack the sandbags however you feel necessary. Make sure that when you place a row on top of another you give them a little press to make sure they stick to the row below. Not too hard though because you don’t want to ruin the nice shape you have created. I left these for a day to dry and then after they had hardened I painted the bags with PVA glue just to make sure that the stacked rows would never separate from each other. Better to be safe than sorry. Also this will stop the clay from absorbing the paint. Once you apply liquid to the surface of the air dry clay it will begin to soften up again. The PVA just ensures this will not happen once I apply the water based acrylic.

The final step in constructing the piece was to add some jungle trees. These were done by simply going to my neighbourhood park and gathering fallen sticks. After collecting all of the sticks I intended to use for the entire table I left them for a week to dry out.

If you don’t want to wait for them to dry you can always place your sticks in the oven at a very low temperature to evaporate all of the water out of them. This can be dangerous due to the fact that wood, especially when dry, wants to singe and burn in the oven. For safety sake simply lay your sticks out in the air at room temperature for about a week. With no weather getting at them they will dry out completely. This ensure that once you paint on top of these sticks they do not rot or decay underneath your beautiful paint job.

I then chose where I wanted to place my trees and glued them in place with a hot glue gun. Once they were where I wanted them I painted them with 2 coats of PVA very similar to how I painted the sand bags. This will not only strengthen the sticks but also prevent them from absorbing the paint too much. Also it seals in any bark that I left on them and if they are cracked anywhere it will make sure that these cracks don’t crack any further.

Once these were dry I finished covering the rest of the foam board base with spackle. Again this should have been done before we constructed the sand bags and the trees. This piece was intended as a prototype for the rest of the terrain I will be building for this table. This is why you need to do a prototype. This way you learn from your mistakes on one piece instead of having to fix errors on every terrain piece. Luckily for you guys, I made the mistakes for you. Don’t do what Donny Don’t does.

Once the entire piece of foam board was covered in spackle and the sand bags and trees are painted with PVA and both have dried we can paint the “ground” with PVA glue and apply our playground sand. I also put sand on the floor inside the bunker and on the roof to make it look like it’s been buried over time.

I would suggest going to your local hardware store and buying a big bag of playground sand for this. Using the sand that they sell in hobby stores is going to be way too expensive. For bases it’s fine but for a large number of terrain pieces it will cost you an arm and a leg. The playground sand cost me less than $6 Canadian for a big bag.

The very last step once the sand has dried is to take an empty spray bottle. Fill it with a mixture of 2/3 PVA glue and 1/3 rubbing alcohol. The alcohol has less surface tension than water and will permeate the sand much better than a water/PVA mixture. Take this mixture and spray the entire piece with it. This will make sure that the sand is sealed in and is less likely to flake off in the future.

Tomorrow we will go through the process of painting and decorating this piece. I know that Tuesday is our usual terrain day, but there is simply too much to cover in one post. So take your time and build yourself a sweet bunker. Tomorrow I’ll show you how to paint it beautifully and make it a terrain piece to be proud of.

Until our next Encounter!

Getting back into 40k – Old Friends, New Game.

By: Kitbasha Jay

This weekend I took a little trip out east of Toronto for the wedding of a good friend of mine from childhood. It was a beautiful ceremony and I’m so glad to see such a good friend of mine finally with someone who makes him happy. I had such a great time and I think everyone else who attended also had a spectacular day.

The reason this is relevant is because, since I was in Oshawa, I was unable to do any hobby work. But the great thing about this hobby is that it follows us where ever we go. Even if we don’t have our miniatures with us. So stay with my while I give you guys a little back story to set the mood for this post.

I met this friend back when we were in grade 9. His name is Andrew and we met one day when I was at the Scarborough Games Workshop location playing some pick up games. I was with another good friend of mine names Darrin who happened to take math class with Andrew. So we hung out for a bit and when we got back to school we began to become good friends. In other words, it was the game that brought us together in the first place.

Andrew and I came up through the school of hard knocks together. We stayed friends through girlfriends, part time jobs, parents splitting up, and a whole lot more growing pains. There were times when we dropped the game and got back into it. But it was the game that brought us together in the first place.

Eventually, once I got into my twenties, I got a job at the same store we had met. He used to drive out and play games while I worked my shift and then we would ride back home together. There was usually a blunt involved but we always had great conversations and our friendship, though started through 40k, was much deeper than just pushing toy soldiers around together.

Both of us are now living on complete opposite ends of the Greater Toronto Area. He is living in Courtice and myself in Etobicoke. We still make an effort to get together every few months and catch each other up on our lives. It was beautiful watching my only remaining friend from high school get married.

So now that you’ve heard the history it’s time to get to the point. Due to life getting in the way, as it always does, he has been out of the game for some time. With the new edition of 40k out it’s an exciting time to get back in. Especially since the last couple editions were so difficult for not just new players but also for those that have been out of the hobby for so long and are trying to get back in.

I have noticed as being a member of the Hogtown 40k gaming club that a lot of our new membership are guys getting back into the game after many years of being dissatisfied with the state of the game. So thank you Games Workshop for finally creating a user friendly gaming system.

Anyway, while I was hanging out with my old friend the night before his wedding day he expressed an interest in getting back into the game after many years of not playing. I mean he stopped playing back in like 4th edition. So it’s as good a time as any to jump back in.

So how do we get a friend back into the game? What advice do we give them? I’m sure many of you out there have a similar situation. There are those of us that have seen the game evolve over time and now that the new edition is here all our old buddies are coming out of the woodworks wanting to play again. So how do we as friends help them get back into it?

The first item that Games Workshop has gifted us with is the rulebook. It used to be that when someone expressed interest in the game we hit them in the face with a massive tomb and said “read this”. Now all we have to do is show them the 8 pages of rules for the game and they can start playing the new Warhammer 40,000 in an afternoon. Thanks GW!

The second item is the new Datasheets. The Codex was another massive book we had to throw at our friends that were interested in getting back into the game. There is still codeces slowly being released as we speak but we no longer have to navigate these ridiculous books like we once did. I can’t remember a time when I didn’t have to flip back and forth through various sections of the book in order to find the rules for whatever unit it was I was trying to play.

Now all of the rules for a unit, for the most part, are included in their data sheet. This makes it super easy for both new players to the game and players that have been out of it so long that they don’t know where to start. Now you can just grab some models, take a look at the data sheet and start playing in a day. Once again, thank you GW!

The final item that seems to come up when either getting a friend back into the game or bringing someone in for the first time is “What army should I play?” In 7th edition if someone has asked me this I would have probably answered “play whatever models you like the look of”. Which was probably not the best advice since so many people were playing ridiculously cheesy formations and units that started to put fluff players, like myself, to shame.

Now in 8th edition my answer to that question would be the same as it was then. In this edition however, this is actually good advice. It seems that from my experience so far in this new edition that pretty much any army can be as formidable and competitive as any other. Yet another way that Games Workshop has opened up the hobby to people who actually want to play this game for the right reasons.

So if you have an old friend that is thinking about getting back into 40k, or even a friend that wants to start playing for the first time, you should let them know that it is easier than ever to play 40k. Finally has Games Workshop created a balanced game where people win on tactical prowess instead of just buying whatever’s the new hotness. For these reasons, it should be easier than ever to get an old friend back into the hobby. So to my best friend Andrew, if you’re reading this, jump back in buddy. The water is warm. Welcome back.

Until our next Encounter!

40k Podcast – Inches & Cubes Ep. 14 – Bloodline Campaign – A Journey into 30k Narrative Campaigns

Paul and Nick sit down with fan-favourite Connor Collie for an extended discussion about a recent Horus Heresy campaign. They intended to talk about the Chaos Codex, but the campaign provided just way too much fun.

Stay tuned for next episode where maybe we actually get around to the Chaos Codex!



Journeys with Jay – Encounter Wargaming meets The Basement Collective.

By: Kitbasha Jay

So we’ve been doing a lot of articles on rules releases lately. Both Adam and I have felt the hype that 8th edition has brought. We also have fallen in love with the new Codeces for our respective factions. Now I feel that it’s time to take the blog in another direction.

For the majority of our blogs in the future I intend on taking you guys with me on my hobby journeys. I’ve been in communication with a few of our loyal Patreon patrons and it seems that you guys would benefit more from a look at the life of Encounter Wargaming. So consider this the first of many blogs following myself, and possibly Adam too, on our journeys through the hobby.

Yesterday was a fun day for the Encounter Wargaming Crew. Since we first started into the Youtube business we have been both fans of, and friends with, The Basement Collective. The relationship started through Battle Brothers Studios with Adam painting a few commissions for the boys. They have been a great help at guiding us in the infancy of our channel. It was a treat yesterday to meet them in person for the first time. Especially since yesterday was Encounter Wargaming’s 1st Birthday.

We filmed two battle reports at The Sword and Board over the course of the afternoon. Adam fielded his Primaris Marines against Kevin’s Imperial Mashed Potatoes, as he called them. I brought my Deathskulls back out to face off against Irvin’s Nurgle Daemons. Both battle reports will be featured on the Encounter Wargaming Youtube channel in the next few weeks.

Irvin's Nurgle Daemons

Here you see the Nurgle Daemons. I learned how tough Nurgle can be. Especially for Orks. The way that he used the Daemon Prince buff alongside the Greater Daemons while simultaneously running with Soul Grinders was absolutely amazing. Most of the time I expect my opponents to sit back and shoot my Orks. Not these daemons.

Other than the Soul Grinders he didn’t really have any shooting. So I suppose he figured he would have to beat me at the combat game. And boy did he. The wall of monsters got to my boys by the second turn. The worst thing you can do to an Orks has always been steal the charge from them. That’s exactly what he did. Not to mention Smite spam! :s

The truth is that the wall of monsters held back my entire army while his Plaguebearer units just walked up the board and slowly claimed objectives. It was genius actually. The Plaguebearers remained untouched while all the big tough units absorbed my wall of boys.

Irvin and Jay after the game

Irvin was an amazing opponent and I look forward to playing him in the future. I have been focussed on my Ork army this edition so far. As a result I have not had time to pull out all my other armies. I feel that with the new Chaos Space Marine book in my possession now I’ll be fielding a lot more Chaos. Irvin proved to me today that Nurgle Daemons are excellent. I’m glad I have quite a few of them. In fact Irvin was using one of my Daemon Princes and my Soul Grinder. I am incredibly happy to see Nurgle played so well. Even if it was some of my own models that gave me the beating I received.

Thanks again to The Basement Collective for a great day celebrating our channel’s birthday. We look forward to hanging out with you guys in the future. For those of you that haven’t seen these guys on YouTube before make sure to check them out.

The Basement Collective Youtube Channel

Until our next Encounter!

Necromunda Rumour Update

By: Kitbasha Jay

On Monday’s blog I promised you all I would update you as more information came available to me. Well I’ve found out some more about this upcoming Necromunda Release and I can’t wait to share it with you all. I haven’t been this excited about the release of a new game in many years.

We all thought Shadow War Armageddon was going to be the new Necromunda. This is because the rules that are used for that game are basically the same as the classic Necromunda. Of course there are some differences. Especially the fact that all the 40k races are involved. But that version of Necromunda was based on 2nd edition Warhammer 40,000 and just slowly evolved on its own from there.

The new Necromunda will be based on the 8th edition of Warhammer 40,000. Say what? That’s right. It will be a skirmish version of 8th. I find this incredibly surprising since Shadow War is still so new. You would think they would try to make Necromunda a very different game from 40k. This actually makes Necromunda more in line with the original Necromunda since it was, at the time, a skirmish version of 40k with an extensive campaign system. So that’s exactly what this is going to be. Sweet!


My fear is that this will make Shadow War obsolete very quickly. I don’t see many gamers playing an overly advanced rules system with their existing 40k models if they have access to real Necromunda that emulates a rules system they are already used to. It’s awesome that they’re bringing back Necromunda. But at the same time they’re going to kill a rather new game called Shadow War. I guess they figure it leaves the door open for two types of gamers. Those that want something they’re used to with different models, as well as those that want a completely different rules system that they can use 40k models they already have.

Another feature that we recently discovered about the new Necromunda is that it will use an Action Point system of activation similar to games like Malifaux. You will have a certain number of Action Points that you can use to activate your models each turn. But you have to spend them wisely or you may not be able to activate all your models every turn. Unless that’s your plan. This is cool because it forces players to think more tactically about what decisions they make each turn rather than relying on the fact that they can use all of their models. It forces you to prioritize. I like it!

We were unsure on Monday whether or not all of the original gangs will be returning. Obviously they’ve told us that the starter set will include Goliath and Escher gangs. Our sources tell us that all of the original gangs, and even outlanders will eventually have rules in the new game. Not only that, but they have promised us a Hive Secondus expansion that may also include things like Genestealer Cult.

They will also be expanding the Necromunda fluff. So not only will we have all the original gangs we know and love so much, but we will get a whole bunch of new ones. This is so exciting and I can’t wait to see what they come up with. This is going to bring a whole new angle to 40k. Especially because we will now have access to a whole bunch of new multi-part plastic kits that people could easily convert to construct Astra Militarum or Renegade armies with.

We at Encounter Wargaming welcome the new Necromunda. We have seen so much cool stuff about it over the last week. We look forward to hearing more as it gets closer to release date. When that will be they still have to let us know. Until then we’ll just sit here and salivate over the beautiful new miniatures that we will all be adding to our collections I’m sure.

Until our next encounter!

Terrain Tuesday – TTCombat MDF Terrain

By: Kitbasha Jay

Now that the exciting codex rumours are out of the way for a while let’s get back to our original format. Tuesdays on the blog we discuss cool terrain. Whether that be terrain building or awesome pre-fab stuff. Today we would like to shine the spotlight on TT Combat.

TT Combat is a terrain manufacturer out of the UK that makes some really cool MDF terrain for multiple gaming systems. They chiefly focus on 28-35mm scale and offer everything from Fantasy to Sci-fi. In fact they even combine MDF and grey board for a 2 tone look that makes it easy for gamers that are too lazy to paint their terrain and just want a drop and go set that they can start using right away.

TT Combat

Their Sci-fi Gothic terrain is perfect for the 40k enthusiast. These pieces are very similar in appearance to the Games Workshop plastic set, but just different enough to avoid copyright issues. The major difference is they’re much cheaper per piece. Well maybe not once you add shipping. Unless you live in the UK and then shipping is free.

TT Combat Castle

They also make some awesome Fantasy themed stuff for you D&D and AOS players. Like this castle that you see above. This set is massive and is under 50 GBP. Wow! The horns you see in the back corner there are a Warhammer Giant. Say What?! Love it!

TT Combat Industrial

For you Infinity or Necromunda lovers, they also make some really awesome industrial sets. The one depicted above is also just under 50 British pounds and is absolutely stunning. To be perfectly honest, I’m considering ordering a few of these myself. What a deal.

Just to be clear, we here at Encounter Wargaming are in no way sponsored nor do we have any kind of deal with TT Combat. When I see awesome terrain for a fair price I just get really excited and have to share my findings. If the people at TT Combat are reading this article and you want to send a sponsorship our way please do so. For the rest of you lovely people, please check them out at

Until our next Encounter!

Big News! Necromunda is coming back!

By: Kitbasha Jay

When we got Shadow War we were all assuming it was meant as a replacement for Necromunda. The outcry was heard all across the internet. There were a large number of people that were upset that they had done away with the gangs and instead incorporated all the other races in 40k. It turns out that we were either all wrong, or Games Workshop actually listened to the complaints.

It seems now that Shadow War was simply meant as a replacement for 40k Kill Team. Perhaps they originally intended it to replace Necromunda but the outcry was so great that they have finally decided to remake the original Necromunda. This excites many people and the positive response on the internet has been astounding.

When Shadow War was first released I heard the complaints of many gamers that it was not the Necromunda they remember. In my own community there were a lot of gamers interested in Necromunda before the release of Shadow War that decided to play Mordheim instead since the only race available in Necromunda was humans. This sentiment was what I figured Games Workshop was doing with Shadow War. They took the old Necromunda rules system and added all the 40k races into the mix. This made it quite interesting since you could now use races other than humans and not all “kill teams” had the same characteristics, making it a much more interesting game.

As stated above, there was a disdain from the veteran gamers that had fond memories of Necromunda because they wanted their old gangs rebooted in up to date plastic sculpts. Well it seems Games Workshop listened because Necromunda is back.

Necromunda Returns

The game is set in Hive Primus. This is the Hive City the original game was set in. In this game you will get to develop your gang over the course of a campaign that unfolds as you play games. Better yet, it appears that the old fluff will be carried into a new incarnation.

We don’t know for sure whether they will give us all of the original gangs. The basic game will give us at least two of the original gangs in new spectacular plastics. The original Necromunda starter set included gangs of House Orlock and House Goliath. They’re taking a different twist this time and including House Escher and House Goliath. Awesome!

Better yet, they will all be multi-part plastic kits. I recall playing Necromunda when I was a kid and most of the gangs were all pewter. This made it very hard to customize your guys. Especially since they were likely to change weapons and stats as the campaign progressed. Now that they’re available in all plastics it will make converting and customizing much easier.

Sadly we don’t have any information on how the rules will play out. Having seen that Shadow War was basically the original Necromunda just updated for a new era, we can safely assume that the new Necromunda will follow suit. I guess we’ll just have to wait and see what GW tells us over the next little while. If I find out any more information I’ll make sure to update you guys as it comes.

Until our next encounter!

40k Podcast – Inches & Cubes Ep. 13 – “Put up your dukes!” – Exploring The World of Competitive Wargaming

On a very special episode of Inches & Cubes, Paul and Nik sit down with special guest, Simon [REDACTED] to explore the world of competitive Warhammer. They learn about event formats and designs, and even tackle different philosophies on gaming, so tune in and enjoy.

See you next week!

New Chaos Codex – Word Bearers

By: Kitbasha Jay

The Legions of Chaos are many, but none are more dedicated than the Word Bearers. The Legion is the originators of the belief in the Emperor as a God. In fact it could be argued that their Primarch started the Horus Heresy. Out of all the Legions they are by far the most devout, and as a result, the most Daemonic.

Today we continue our look at the upcoming Chaos Codex release. All this week we have been focusing on the new Chaos Legion rules. Last but not least we have the Word Bearers. The army with the most Dark Apostles spreading the Word. These bad boys inspire Chaos rebellions across the Imperium, and their new rules reflect that.

As always, let’s start with the Legion Trait. It is aptly named “Profane Zeal” and allows Word Bearers’ Infantry, Bikers, and Helbrutes to re-roll failed Morale. This apparently synergizes well with a Dark Apostle’s Demagogue aura. It allows any unit within 6″ of a Dark Apostle to use his Leadership of 9.

Word Bearers

Currently in the Chaos Index an Icon of Vengeance can grant a unit +1 Ld. So unless they are removing the icons, or perhaps changing what they do, then the Apostle may not be necessary. For me it would come down to point cost per unit, as well as maneuverability with the aura. But being able to re-roll with a Ld of 9 either way is pretty damn good.

Games Workshop has also revealed a new unit available to Chaos Space Marines. The Exalted Champion. This character allows units within 6″ to re-roll failed to wound rolls in the Fight phase. This could be gross not only for Word Bearers units, but also to the World Eaters we talked about on Monday.

Either of the above mentioned characters will be absolutely amazing with the Word Bearers’ specific Warlord Trait that they let us in on. It’s called The Voice of Lorgar. It basically allows you to make one of your characters (Warlord) increase the range of his aura by 3″. This now means that everyone within 9″ or that Exalted Champion is re-rolling Wounds or using that Demogogue ability without having to buy Icons. Sounds pretty dirty.

They continue to reflect the Word Bearers fluff through the rules. When I think of the Word Bearers the first thing that pops into my head is Dark Apostles, Cultists and Daemons. We’ve already seen how Dark Apostles will play an epic roll amongst the Word Bearers. It seems lots of Cultists will do you good as well.

They introduce a new Stratagem. This is apparently available to all Chaos Space Marines. This makes me glad I have a lot of cultists in all 3 of my CSM armies. It basically makes Chaos Cultists into Genestealer Cult. Check it.

2CP Tide of Traitors – Use this Stratagem at the end of your Movement phase. If you do, pick a unit of Chaos Cultists and remove it from the battlefield. You can then set it up again wholly within 6″ of the edge of the battlefield and more than 9″ from any enemy models, at it’s full starting strength.

Say wha..? So let me get this straight. Once my unit of cultists has reached a low number. Say you shot them in your turn and like 5 ran away and there was 3 guys left. I can just take them off the battlefield in my turn, and then throw 30 at you again…like immediately. Wow! just wow! I will definitely be fielding many cultists in future games.

Games Workshop let us in on another awesome Stratagem. This one’s Word Bearers specific. It basically makes it easier for a Character to summon in Daemons. For 1 Command Point you can re-roll “any of the dice” used in the summoning roll. Also the model doesn’t suffer the mortal wounds on doubles or triples. This makes the Word Bearers summoning masters. Sweet!

Like I said, when I think of Word Bearers I think Dark Apostles, Cultists and Daemons. Sounds like if you want to win with Word Bearers you want to play fluffy. Finally it is clear that Games Workshop is rewarding fluffy players by making lists competitive by playing to the fluff. Also, they promised us that most of the Chaos Daemon units have made it into the book. Love it guys. Keep it up. I can’t wait to get my hands on this book.

Until our next encounter!